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Land Rover SOLD

Overview photo



I've very reluctantly decided that I'm going to have to let my beloved 1969 Series 2A SWB petrol Land Rover go. The main reason for the sale is lack of use. I commute to and from work in a boring old Volvo 440 because of the better fuel economy and comfort, and I never did get around to joining an off road club (partly because I was worried about damaging it after the amount of work that went into rebuilding it). In this description I'll assume you already know all about Series 2As in general, and will only describe the unusual features of this vehicle.

My father and I spent about five years on the rebuild, off and on. We were extremely thorough. Almost all of the mechanical parts were completely rebuilt (including the engine and gearbox), the chassis was thoroughly repaired and hot-dip galvanised, any part that we judged to be imperfect was replaced (including lots of parts that, in retrospect, probably didn't really need replacing), and many improvements were made. The one short-cut we took was at the very end, when we were in a hurry to get it on the road, we put the roof back on without bothering to fix the slight leak or re-spray it first. I later regretted this because water from the leaky roof dripped into my stereo and killed it.

These are the main improvements we made to the vehicle:

I will also throw in the following extras:

The MOT is valid until the end of next May. It went straight through the last test and I don't expect it to have any significant trouble with the next one either. The road tax is free, and insurance is relatively cheap. Structurally, the vehicle is about as good as you're going to get- the chassis, bulkhead, and bodywork are all totally free of rot, and I don't think you will ever have a problem with the chassis. Cosmetically, I will concede that it isn't going to win any awards (T-cut and elbow grease should return the shine to the lower body, but the roof and cab sides could probably use a respray). Mechanically, it has a couple of slight niggles that don't really affect the drivability: the clutch release bearing sometimes makes a groaning noise when you press the clutch pedal, and the engine tends to pink (pre-ignite) slightly when you accelerate hard up a hill. I think the problem is that it doesn't really like unleaded petrol (even with an additive), but my Dad points out that it never pinks when he drives it, so it may just be my driving style.

Here is a view of the rear of the vehicle. You can see the roof rack, rear spotlight (very handy when working behind the vehicle at night), heated rear window, spare wheel carrier, reversing lights, rear foglights, rear mud flaps, and towing facilities. There's also a fabric spare wheel cover that wasn't in place when this photo was taken.

Rear view

Inside the back of the vehicle, you can see the tough steel chequer-plated load bay and the built-in lockable tool chest.

In the back

In the cab, you can see the air vent fly-grilles, the locking compartment with the fuse array and part of the wiring loom in it on the left, the new dashboard with lots of auxiliary controls and gauges on the right, the headlight controls on the steering column, the steel chequer-plated floor, the overdrive control knob, and the power cutout switch on the bulkhead near the driver's left knee.

In the cab

In the engine bay, you can see the engine bay light, parts of the new wiring loom (that's a special self-amalgamating rubber coating you can see, not black insulation tape), the K&R air filter, and the Weber carb. The battery is less than a year old.

Engine bay

In this photo, you can see the halogen headlights (a huge improvement over the original sealed beam units), the spotlights, and the hazard lights in operation. You can also just about make out two of the air horns behind the grille. In case you're wondering what my Dad's doing on the ladder, he's freeing up one of the roof rack mounting brackets.

Front view with lights on

The new fuse board is behind a locking door where the passenger side glove box is on most cars. I have a laminated list of which fuse is which that I keep in the vehicle along with a bag of spare fuses.


In this picture you can see one of the front mud flaps, a free-wheeling hub, and one of the 205-R16 Mud Terrain radial tyres.

Front wheel

A totally honest view of the underside of the vehicle, looking from the back. Note the complete lack of any chassis rust, the stainless steel exhaust (it is only discoloured on the surface), and the correct suspension stops and straps (which usually seem to be missing from Landies of this age). The leaf springs may look a little rusty, but it's only on the surface- all four springs were replaced with brand new ones as part of the rebuild. If you look very closely you might just be able to make out the special removable gearbox crossmember in the background. As you can see the axle does leak very slightly (as do the gearbox and engine), but that's perfectly normal for an old Landy, and at least it proves there's still oil inside.


The gearbox, transfer box, overdrive, and handbrake as seen through the access hole under the middle seat. Believe it or not, this is actually fairly clean as gearboxes go.


The stereo mounting bracket and front cabin light.

Above the driver's head

In this photo you can see the rear cabin, including three of the speakers (the ones in the black boxes in particular are pretty decent ones, which you need if you're going to stand any chance of hearing the music over the gearbox). You can also see the rear cabin light (above the door) and the rear windscreen wiper motor.

The rear cabin

To prove that the Landy runs, here is a brief 3MB movie of it in action. You will need a fairly recent version of Apple Quicktime Player to see it (if you can't get it to work, don't worry, you're not missing much). It doesn't actually sound that rough in real life; the microphone in my camera is rubbish. The smoke in the exhaust is because it's just been started from cold and the choke is on- it goes away once the engine is warm.